TO KILL A MOCKING JAY - Adieu Ms Everdeen

The outlook was grim from the onset which is why it took me so long to finally get round to it. I knew Mocking Jay Part Deux would be a sombre affair for a number of reasons. The first of which being that it is the last film I will see Philip Seymour Hoffman in. That alone makes it a sad day in cinema. 

The Hunger Games franchise already brought along its fair share of melancholy to the table. Dystopian nightmares in the form of totalitarian states and gladiatorial combat. Also the loss of likeable, key characters is always a bummer.

That said, here's to a strong, non-sappy, non-objectified, female hero. Still such a rarity in Hollywood. (Incidentally it was also great to see Julianne Moore getting in on the villain action.)

"....ever in your favour."

Jennifer Lawrence has not been flying the flag alone as there has been no shortage in other genres too. Film has been enjoying a recent influx of solid female leads across the board. My favourites this year?

1) Jenny Slate as Donna Stern in Obvious Child.

2) Ok, technically a documfilm but Iris Apfel in Iris is distilled chutzpah.

3) Greta Gerwig and Lola Kirke in Mistress America (actually anything that Greta Gerwig touches). As you well know, I'm a sucker for an 80s soundtrack.

Hurrah for the solid, female protagonist and may the odds be ever in her favour.

IF YOU CAN PIN IT, YOU CAN ACHIEVE IT - Right?

Edward Young once said that procrastination was the thief of time. But I have come to believe that the thief of time is actually PINTEREST!

"I pin, therefore I am"

Living vicariously through a carefully constructed set of pins ain't living at all. However an alternate life seems that little bit more within our grasp when you see it on a mood board. And the pictures are oh so pretty. I could pin Mads Mikkelsen all day!

ETHNICALLY SPEAKING - Miss International Love

Its officially British Summer Time and while Manchester still feels rather autumnal, there is a distinctly tropical vibe on the high street. Large geometric shapes in the most vibrant hues can be seen gracing the rails of most retail giants. 

The good news is that we have evolved beyond the generic 'Ethnic' or 'Tribal' as a one term fits all to refer to such prints. And the even better news is that everyone from Atmosphere to Zara is partaking. However if you are by any chance looking for the real deal. Here are just a few examples of what to look out for: -

"Dutch wax, Holland wax print, Chinle Pattern, Ikat print, Ganado pattern, Tapa print, Kente cloth, Shibori fabric, Aloha print and on and on and on..."

It doesn't matter if you're from Abuja or Aberdeen there are plenty of prints for everyone.

FIFTY SHADES OF BOREDOM - Cinemasochism.

So the  UK release of Fifty is upon us and I'm underwhelmed. So far, 2015's Go-To film about sadomasochism has to be Whiplash (I may be forced to eat my words at a later date as I am yet to see The Duke of Burgundy which looks sublime)

"A wealth of love..."?

Strictly speaking, Whiplash is not a film about sex or indeed jazz as many critics would add. Its historical references may be notoriously inaccurate but the cruel power dynamics make for compelling viewing. And beyond the great music J.K. Simmons and Miles Teller keep the momentum going all the way through.

WHITE FLIGHT - How to be Resplendent.

I was recently invited to a party where the dress code was white and gold. What a delicious combination. Fresh with a touch of luxury. The good news is that I wasn't stuck for vintage options.

My first instinct (disco fiend that I am) was to go for a gold dress with white accessories. My second thought was to go retro sporty teamed with hip hop jewellery. Late 70s/early 80s tennis fashion look book. Wimbledon is just a distant memory but there are still a few vintage Fred Perry and Lacoste threads floating around.

"Whiter shade of pale."

I had also considered the jumpsuit in a very drapey fabric. In the end I decided to channel Jade Jagger or Grecian 2014 as I'd like to call it. I picked up a ruched white dress on Ebay for a steal. No need for a white horse!

BLUE ANGELS - Jonesing for jeans

There are jeans and there are badass jeans ad I have been jonesing for the latter for quite some time. So here's what I'm working with.

70s French Riviera chic.

High-waisted, medium blue, flares. I like statement accessories but might pass on the Amazonian heels.

"Forever in blue jeans."

I’m with the band.
The twisted sibling of the girl next door.The skinniest of skinnies. I’d go with charcoal. Maybe ripped at the knee. Faded tee accompanied by a devil may care demeanor. Icons of choice? Debbie Harry, Joan Jett, Chrissie Hynde, Suzi Quatro.

Especially for you. 
Jeans from the Stock, Aitken and Waterman assembly line. Acid wash, tapered, ankle-grazers. In my defence, I have been listening to a lot of Bananarama, Mel & Kim and Kylie Minogue recently. Whimsical, tomboyish and the first pair of non-stretch jeans I’ve owned in almost 15 years. They are of course, vintage and it was love at first sight.

SHE WORKS HARD FOR THE MONEY - Vintage work wear.

I decided to buy myself a new work wardrobe. 'Tis a very difficult task when you are as dedicated to the 1980s and as anti-work wear as I. The very thought of corporate style brings me out in hives. Most work wear is little better than a school uniform for grown ups. So where to start? Where I always start. At the movies.

"Working girl."

1. Obviously Working Girl's Tess McGill in that final scene, where she actually looks like a boss.

2. Mannequin's Roxie Shield. One word. Shoulders.

3. Fatal Attraction's Alex Forrest. A bad misrepresentation of successful women, I know, but that leather jacket and divine curls. Power dressing at its simplest.

4. Over Christmas, I enjoyed watching Scrooged for the umteenth time. I nearly forgot about long-suffering assistant, Grace Cooley. Her over-sized, shiny, blazer over the secretary/geek blouse.

I discovered the perfect pair of trousers. High-waisted. Tapered, Charcoal. Flecked. Courtesy of my favourite vintage store.

A GOOD VINTAGE - This old thing?

As a student, my weekends were often spent vintage shopping. Such expeditions would culminate in bags full of sheepskin, mock croc and the polyester gems of yesteryear. Almost two decades later? Not so much. Last year I came back from a trip to Brighton empty handed... And that NEVER happens.

One reason for this is that the high street, now more than ever, cultivates a very retro aesthetic. You can easily look like a throwback with brand new purchases. Young Molly Ringwalds, Ally Sheedys and Jennifer Greys are a great barometer of what's happening in retail. Knowing its all Urban Outfitters or Topshop and still looking the part is a fashion Jedi mind trick 

"Step back in time."

To those who crave authenticity or are less adept at fooling the untrained eye, there are still lots of places to buy good vintage and not just in thrift shops. Websites such as Etsy and Asos Marketplace have regulated stock. I'm mostly an Ebay girl.

HE'S BACK - Gatsby, Gatsby, Gatsby.

At last. Baz Luhrmann's remake of The Great Gatsby is finally here. Once again, cinema is attempting another re-work of the F. Scott Fitzgerald novel. I'm looking forward to the spectacle of it all. I'm anticipating lush decadence, lavish costumes, stunning cinematography and, of course, a controversial soundtrack. 

It seems only fitting that the critics have found this film a little too much. I would expect no less from a Luhrmann production particularly one set during a time of economic boom. The roaring twenties. The decade that gave birth to the Jazz Age, early wave Art Deco, Surrealism and the Harlem Renaissance.

Names: Clarice, Augusta, Beatrice, Amelia. Gertrude, Celia, Evangeline, Alberta, Daisy, Jordan, Myrtle, Bertie, Monty, Eugene, Harry, Teddy, Freddie, Dickie.

Dance: Charleston

Dress: Free-flowing, drop-waist, flapper

Fabric: Velvet. Silk. Beading.

Hairstyle: The Bob, Eton crop or Marcel Wave worn under a Cloche hat. Topped off with an extra long string of pearls.


"Simultaneously enchanted and repelled"


Lurhmann forewent the music of Cole Porter, Duke Ellington and George Gershwin in favour of Beyonce, Andre 3000 and Lana Del Rey. I'm ok with that as long as all the other elements of the film capture the zeitgeist. As a lover of Jack Clayton's 1974 Farrow/ Redford collaboration, I'm curious to see what Carey Mulligan and Leonardo Dicaprio will bring to the mix.

SIDESTEPPING THE GENDER POLITICS - Fashion and androgyny

I love an an androgynous silhouette . Nothing says power like strong lines, structuring and angular tailoring. Recently, a watered down version of this 1980s style found its way back into our wardrobes. The boyfriend jean. The boyfriend jacket. The boyfriend shirt. But why poach from him indoors? 

Rebel Rebel
This February, I was tickled pink to find my two favourite androgynes in a pop video together. David Bowie's new video, The Stars (are out tonight), starring himself and Tilda Swinton, served up a healthy dose of gender play. There are those androgynes who appear to straddle both masculinity and femininity. Whilst others appear to accentuate neither. Bowie has always managed to exude sex appeal without the machismo. Choosing Swinton to co-star was a very cool move. David Fincher once said of her: "She doesn't announce her presence, she just slowly steals all the gravity."

Cream of the crop
There are other androgynes who possess a pixie-like charm. Often referred to as elfin or gamine, there is a tomboyish beauty to these women. During the 1960s, Twiggy rocked wide eyed look of Bambi with a dash of  Mary Quant. Later that decade, Mia Farrow had a similarly boyish air in Rosemary's Baby. There was much controversy surrounding her newly cropped hairstyle. Whilst many believed Vidal Sassoon to have created the look for the film, Farrow claimed it was a DIY effort.

"BOY? GIRL? BOY? GIRL?"

Music to watch girls by
Whilst modern musicians frequently borrow stylistically from artists like Grace Jones and Annie Lennox, I can't help sensing style over substance and general lack of depth. The originals combined art with incendiary messages, strong convictions and equally powerful vocals.

Suits you Madame.
The power suit deserves its status. Padded shoulders and boxy jackets naturally create volume and subsequently carry more clout than the namby pamby trouser suits of today. Case in point. SATC's Miranda Hobbes. She epitomised this look. Compare the hard-nosed early wave Miranda of the TV series with the girlie manifestation of the films. Ultimately I blame Hollywood for turning a savvy, cynical Manhattanite into a Stepford wife. By all means, update her look but motherhood is not synonymous with flowy dresses and a manic smile.

Shaken not stirred.

When it comes to suits, I do admire a woman in a tuxedo. Jennifer Beals' halter-tux in Flashdance. Demi Moore's new year's tux in About Last Night. However nobody did it better than Marlene Dietrich in Morocco (1930). She had more chutzpah and prowess than all the 007s put together.

Savile Row
As a Tarantino-obsessed 6th form media student, Reservoir Dogs and Pulp Fiction were amongst my style inspirations. Costume designer, Betsy Heimann, who worked on both films, sourced the outfits on the cheap. The finished product created a cult following. Both films were remembered for their costumes as much as the plot. But it never occurred to me that this was a look just for the boys.

ERYKAH DOES CHAKA - BET Awards

Watching the BET awards, I was mesmerised by Erykah Badu. Her rendition of Chaka Khan's Whatcha Gonna Do For Me? was vocally on point and charismatic to boot. I never tire of her evolving wardrobe. Ms Badu has re-kindled my love for statement jewellery and, very possibly, dungarees. Some respite from all the jump suit madness. I heart her.

DING DING, ROUND TWO - Obama's close call

Its been a month since the US dodged a public relations bullet. It was the result that stirred relief in many. As the dust settles on the re-election of Obama, the question arises of why he got a second term in office.


Best in Show
Rest assured, quite like the US presidency, this post is not political. Even the goings on in Congress and the House of Representatives have little to do with how America is run. Obamadrama is about showmanship, putting election campaigns right up there with beauty pageants and dog shows. Spin and rhetoric are integral components of commercial appeal. Obama can certainly deliver a speech. He strikes the perfect balance between the hopefulness of Martin Luther King and the charisma of JFK. Even during  a time of economic decline, the listener is left with a sense of possibility.

Michelle ma belle
Like her husband, Michelle is also a compelling speaker. She's got the credentials to back it up too. She is a high achiever and the most popular First lady since Jackie Kennedy. They are a sexy First. Perhaps Obama is a better actor than Reagan. Either way people like the package. Add two gorgeous girls et voila. Its a Ralph Lauren, Abercrombie & Fitch, Tommy Hilfiger and Gap advert all rolled into one. The Obama's have become the wholesome, box-fresh, all-American brand that people want to buy into. Its Oprah appeal and then some.

"Yes we can!"

Equality in the Land of Make-Believe
The problem with politics is homogeneity. In a world where politicians have morphed into the same guy, each considered just as inconsequential as the next, Obama created some respite from our monotony. Which brings me to the elephant in the room. Demographics. They voted for the black guy. Once again we can believe the facade that America is the land of opportunity. A single term in office would have felt too much like lip service to this ideal.

Politically Incorrect
In our apathy towards politicians, we no longer trust in their policies or promises. So we look for other distinguishing traits. Charming and conventionally attractive candidates get more votes.

 'The country runs better with a good looking man in the White House. Look what happened to Nixon. No one wanted to f*ck him, so he f*cked everyone.'  Samantha Jones, SATC TV series.

Crude perhaps but not untrue. Obama proved very popular with female voters.

Obama is not going to magically reduce crime, lower taxes or boost the economy. That is not his job. His job is to be a figurehead, to raise the morale of the nation and charm its allies. He has accomplished that. Christmas of 2008, was the first year we ever received Christmas cards with the First family on the front, indicating that they have become one of America's most sellable commodities.

MASTER OF CEREMONIES - 2012 Olympics

Pride, hard-work and the genius of Danny Boyle aside, not everybody was feeling the 2012 Olympic opening ceremony. Apparently certain aspects of the show were lost in translation. Which begs the question, what's not to understand? JK Rowling, Bean, Bond, The Queen, Beckham on a boat, Mary Poppins, Suffragettes, Hey Jude, Ska, Punk, The Stones and Kenneth Brannagh in top hat and tails reciting Shakespeare. All very globalised images of Britishness that translate from Azerbaijan to Zimbabwe.



But you can't please everybody. 

Tory mp, Aidan Burley, already sacked as a ministerial aide for attending a Nazi themed stag party, called it 'the most leftie opening ceremony I have ever seen....more than Beijing, the capital of a communist state! Welfare tribute next?'

I appreciate Burley clarifying, to fellow Nazi compadres, that Beijing is indeed the capital of a communist state. Twitter continues to be the noose with which many buffoons hang themselves.

"We could be heroes."

London combined some of the best and most distinct aspects of Brit culture with its multiculturalism. Doreen Lawrence, Mohammed Ali, Daniel Craig, Macca, that haunting dance to Abide With Me, percussionist Dame Evelyn Glennie, the construction workers lined up to see their hard work come into fruition, Chariots of fire, the volunteers, dancers, Sierra-Leone scraping together their funds to represent and the Fijian flag bearer. All in all, a job well done.

FAREWELL MY SUMMER LOVE - I miss Disco.

 I had been archiving my disco tracks (yeah, I said it) the day before Donna Summer died. Must have been something in the air. Much like '80s New York, Summer encapsulated the best parts of disco. The sass, the wit, the energy. So it is very fitting that I will be attending a Million Dollar Disco this weekend. Mood board alert.

Discotheque Royale - Studio 54 was arguably the most famous nightclub in the world.  It cost $400,000, for interior designer, Ron Dowd, to transform the former theatre into West 54th Street's decadent hot spot. Writers, artists, models, directors, designers, rock stars socialites alike frequented this institution. There was no hierarchy, as long as you were rich, beautiful or famous.Liza Minnelli, Michael Jackson, Truman Capote, Grace Jones, Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, Mick & Bianca Jagger, Andy Warhol, Jerry Hall, Mikhail Baryshnikov, Diana Vreeland, Salvador Dali and Woody Allen were amongst the chosen few. Its heyday was from 1977 until 1981 when founders, Steve Rubell and Ian Schrager were imprisoned for tax evasion.

"The last days of Disco"

Tracks - Donna Summer, On the Radio. Pointer Sisters, Happiness. Diana Ross, Love Hangover. Randy Crawford, Street life. Thelma Houston, Don't leave me this way.

Disco in film -  Michelle Pfeiffer's  Scarface entrance is iconic but don't overlook further inspiration..... The Last Days of Disco, Boogie Nights, Studio 54, Carlito's Way, Saturday Night Fever.

Modern Disco - Alison Goldfrapp. Electro/ glam rock. My favourites. Ooh la la and Strict Machine. Rosin Murphy. For me she was Moloko and going solo proved that. Let me Know and If We're in Love make the hairs on the back of my neck stand up.

And of course, the clothes - My wardrobe is suspended somewhere between of the late '70s and early '80s. I adore a good disco dress. Halston captured both the elegance and opulence of that era perfectly.

See you under the mirror ball.

DAS KINO, MEIN FREUND - A year of film

If I could, I'd go to the cinema everyday. Film is a magical medium with the ability to alter my perspective. I have no genre preferences from docufilms to world cinema. There is no pleasure too guilty. I employ an open door movie policy. Cowboys, aliens, cyborgs, zombies, gangsters, superheroes. All need apply. Here's what I've consumed over the past year.

If About Schmidt was set in Hawaii it would resemble THE DESCENDANTS. That is to say, there are similar themes running throughout. However, instead of Jack Nicholson, George Clooney is the anti-stud in this black comedy/drama. It was refreshing to see him play a real person with real problems. He has an easy chemistry with Shailene Woodley and Amara Miller who excel as his daughters. Alexander Payne (Sideways, Election, About Schmidt) shows the Hawaii that is rarely represented in the media.

The Truman Show meets The Ice Storm. Set in the early 1970s,  CINEMA VERITE explores the birth of reality television. Diane Lane plays a post-feminist housewife and Tim Robbins is her alpha male husband. James Gandolfini is the film-maker documenting the downfall of their all-American family. All three deliver. Combining the cinematic style of the early 1970s with  home cinema shots (very Wonder Years) the film convincingly captures the spirit of the times.

GIRL WITH THE DRAGON TATTOO. Originally named the man who hated women, I think the original title is more apt. I watched both the English an the Swedish versions of the film and was surprised to find that, for once, the remake was the better movie. It is slicker and more stylish with better cinematography. Truer to the book, the characters have more depth and the plot has greater detail. However as a stand alone movie, I found it predictable and gratuitous in many ways. I was bored to find the objectification of an otherwise strong female lead. Not Craig's most ground breaking role.

MARTHA, MARCY  MAY MARLENE tells the story of a young woman acclimatising to life after a cult. Exploring themes of alienation and paranoia, the film is beautifully shot, using disjointed narrative and a series of flashbacks to convey her experiences. Elizabeth Olsen gives a smart, authentic and subtle portrayal of someone with Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. This movie proved an unexpected gem.

Michel Hazanavicius brings back the glamour of the silver screen in THE ARTIST. Silent movie actor, Jean Dujardin, struggles to make the transition to the talkies. As it is a silent movie we really get a chance to engaged with the text. Both actors made this easy for me.  Berenice Bejo is stunningly animated yet natural. Playing a woman ten years her junior, she exudes warmth and mischief.

"Cinema Paradiso."

A playground altercation brings about CARNAGE. Roman Polanski explores civilisation, sexism and racism in western society. Starring Kate Winslet, Jodie Foster, Christopher Waltz and John C Riley. Honest opinion? Worked better as a play. Social satire can be tricky. I got no sense of connection between the characters. Subsequently, it felt like watching four unremarkable monologues.

THE HELP was exactly what I expected. No revelations, no surprises. A series of stereotypes. You'll hate Bryce Dallas Howard. You'll champion Emma Stone. You'll pity Viola Davies and Octavia Spencer. Once again Hollywood discusses race by referring to African Americans as the abject other. It wasn't a bad movie but don't expect any mould-breaking.

WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT KEVIN. We do indeed. I loved this film. Director, Lynne Ramsay is a gifted storyteller. An enchanting use of light and colour. Tilda Swinton is very real as a mother trying to bond with her hostile son. Erza Miller and Jasper Newell give outstanding portrayals of Kevin throughout the various stages of his life. I'm expecting big things from both these young actors.

TINKER TAILOR SOLDIER SPY boasts a top class line up. Oldman, Firth, Hardy, Cumberbatch. It really did feel like 1970s London with all the synthetic fibres and thick rimmed glasses. One question though. Why save the majority of the plot for the second half of the film? That said, if you are patient, you will be rewarded.

THE SKIN I LIVE IN - Like all Pedro Almodovar movies, they work better if you have no idea what to expect. It is just as outlandish as his other works. It's not as much of a visual feast as La Mala Educacion or Volver but you will not be disappointed.

I've praised Ryan Gosling's DRIVE wardrobe in a previous post. This is in addition to a belting soundtrack, sharp performances, awesome plot and spectacular mise-en-scene. It will go in my modern greats collection alongside Scarface, True Romance and Goodfellas.

Also...Eagerly Anticipated

BREAKING DAWN, PART DEUX. I think we're in for a treat. Bella, less codependent, Edwards, more emotionally available and Jacob, less narcissistic. There's the arrival of the global vamps, with new and interesting ways to annihilate each other. Things get a little X-men. Carlisle being Xavier, Aro is Magneto. Don't even get me started on Bella's new powers or the hybrid daughter. As I said, no pleasure too guilty.

GREEN GODDESS - Spring's alternative LBD

Inspired by Spring and nostalgic about real Summer days, I went on a treasure hunt to find green things. A scarf, a clutch-bag, but particularly a dress. Green has more mystique than the LBD. Its magic reminds us of mythical creatures like fairies and nymphs. This is a cautionary tale about a beautiful green dress.

A few years ago I had an olive halterneck dress. We rarely parted company. Like a steady boyfriend it accompanied me to exhibition openings, poetry slams, barbecues. Only my jeans have boasted that level of versatility. We all have that one item that makes us feel comfortable, vivacious and is effortlessly appropriate for any occasion. This was such an item.

One day it ended up in the charity bag. I had gotten more than my pound-per-wear out of it. It was time to move on. The end of an era. Yet it was a decision that filled me with immediate regret.

"The Woman in Green."

Two weeks ago I went hunting for a similar dress. I tried every vintage shop. Then the high street. De Nada. The moment you decide to seek out an item that specific, you will find nothing matching your criteria. Its a law of the retail universe.

Disheartened, I popped into my favourite charity shop to console myself with a book and there it was. The original dress, brand new with the tag on it. In my size. In better condition than my first one. Oh and it was £4. Call it a fluke but I call it synchronicity. A call to return to that woman I'd lost contact with. A great visual reminder of that woman in green.

Oh and one last word about culling your wardrobe. Tread carefully. Make sure that the discarded item is definitely surplus to requirement. You might not be so lucky to find it again.

STREET DANCE - The allure of the ballet

10 years ago I was never without my leather ballet pumps. However in recent years their reputation has faltered. Just like skinny jeans and biker jackets, they became trite, hackneyed versions of their former selves. Poor fabric and cut aside, the high street can ruin a garment by over-production alone. No names mentioned. Women everywhere gave them a wide birth in favour of brogues and loafers. But there are many reasons why the lowly ballerina never really went away.

"Dancing in the street."

1. For me, ballet slippers represent optimism. They indicate the possibility of warmer, dryer weather. But not so much that the toes need to come out.

2. Their popularity also boils down to wearability. They bend to our feet's every whim allowing us to navigate the pavement effortlessly.

3. In terms of Spring footwear they are still a very stylish shoe. They look sleek where other flats look frumpy.

4. Versatility. They can can be worn both casually and formally, making them a staple and a classic.

The trick is to go for quality over quantity. A good pair can last for years. So save the Wellingtons for Glastonbury and release your inner ballerina.

BOYS ON FILM - Male style tribes

This week I have been observing men in the media.  In my voyeurism, I have noticed that these guys are not as arbitrarily thrown together as they would have us believe . Style is how they speak to the world about who they are. Each man has their own ethos no matter how subtle. These are the ones that resonate with me most. 
  

Boy from Bohemia. 
Flat caps, sheepskin, retro sportswear, earthy, autumnal, 70s shades. Trade marks of modern, conscious hip hop artist such as Common, Mos Def, Maxwell (circa 1996) and Bilal. However before the 90s neo soul movement. Before record labels handed RnB a guitar and a dashiki. Before tie-dye went loco, there was one misunderstood unknown by the name of Romeo Blue aka Mr Lenny Kravitz. Inspired by the likes of Hendrix and Lennon, he would dress like his musical influences. Few understood his vintage leather jackets and bell bottoms, especially in the 1980s. Yet, as Kravitz continued to do his own thing both musically and aesthetically, he gradually became one of the coolest men in pop rock. He has since swopped the dreads for a fro, eventually cutting it low. But the original elements remain the same.

The Muse
Ryan Gosling gets a category all by himself. I have no idea how he dresses off screen, but he has to be one of the best styled men on set. That is to say his characters have great wardrobes. The iconic jacket in Drive. The biker jacket he wore in Blue Valentine. Straddling both the indie and commercial market, Gossers, you've come a long way from The Notebook.

"Boys will be boys."

Retrospective innovators
The buyers for Primark can be both satirical and on point. Most recently it was a De La Soul 3 Feet High and Rising t-shirt. A welcome break from the hackneyed Guevara, Hendrix or Scarface tees.

Some men have a natural ability to look past the cliches. Enter Pharell Williams and Lupe Fiasco. These guys possess both a love for old school hip hop and a flare for the avant-garde. They'd gladly wear a pair of Converse All Stars with a NASA space suit. They play with iconic pieces to create an altogether new semantic.

The classic
Think Robert Redford's post-preppy college, post-military Hubble in The Way We Were. George Peppard in Breakfast at Tiffany's. Steve McQueen in Bullit. Paul Newman in Torn Curtain. These were the pioneers.

Next post, put on your dancing shoes.

ALEXIS COLBY - An argument for time travel.

If I could travel back to any era it would be the 1980s, if only to retrieve my mother's shoe collection. I could well up when I think about all that two tone, snakes skin, peep toe, kitten heeled, ruched, soft leather action. She still has the shoe collection to rival Imelda Marcos but I can't help but wonder who is rocking all that vintage footwear now.

For me the 80s embodied both decadence and sass. We witnessed the birth of the yuppie and time shares in Marbella. Investors made a killing on the stock market. People ate caviar and drank champagne like it was going out of fashion (and it did). Not since the roaring 20s had a decade celebrated wealth so audaciously. Even our music promoted affluence. Think The Flying Lizard's Money and Gwen Guthrie's Ain't Nothing Going On But the Rent.

Fashion reflected this over inflated ego. Women wore their prosperity on their puff-sleeves. Enter the power suit, stilettos, shoulder pads, gilt, sequins, diamante. It was farewell to au naturale and hello to hard-edged grooming. The dewy look of the 1970s gave way to bold red lips, sultry, smoky eyes and structured hair. Cue the morose girls in Robert Palmer's Addicted to Love video.

"I love that outfit. I'm amazed it's lasted so many seasons!"

One show that really encompassed the zeitgeist was Aaron Spelling's prime time soap opera, Dynasty (1981-1989). It surrounded the lives of the Carringtons, a wealthy Colorado oil family. Saturday nights became all about the Denver Tycoons and and their pampered fashionistas. It was the ultimate style fix. So much so that the series spawned  The Dynasty Collection, a successful fashion line, complete with luxury products. The show's initial reception was mediocre. It wasn't until the introduction of Alexis Colby's character, in the second season, that ratings soared. She was notorious for her multiple romances, acid tongue and physical altercations. Joan Collins portrayal possessed so much joie de vivre that she even beat Sophia Loren to the part.

   

Alexis also elevated Dynasty's style quota. Whether it was a one-shoulder lamay dress or white fur hat, she was always immaculately turned out. She owed her style to late costume designer, Nolan Miller. Previously working on The Love Boat and Charlie's Angels, he was essentially the Patricia Field of the 1980s. He would accentuate Alexis' femininity with nipped in waists and plunging necklines. He also ensured that she was bejeweled within an inch of her life. Collins commanded $120,000 per episode, proving to be one of the most watchable soap stars of the decade.

Other 1980s fashion icons:

Daryl Hannah as Madison in Splash. Think turquoise roll neck bat wing jumper dress.
Jennifer Beals as Alex in Flashdance. Think halterneck tuxedo top and bow tie.
Michelle Pfeiffer as Elvira in Scarface. Electric blue, satin full length gown. I've said it before and I'll say it again. Flawless.


Next post, boys are back in town.

TWILIGHT YEARS - Edward and the 30 plus woman

Last November, I queued for pre-bought tickets to Breaking Dawn, the fourth instalment of the Twilight saga. I'd contemplated skipping work for the back to back Twiathelon followed by the premier screening, which still feels like a perfectly good idea. I've literally stepped into the Twilight Zone. Oh and I forgot to mention that I'm in my 30s.

For the record, I'm not psychologically unhinged and I haven't invested in any of the merchandise. Last Summer my partner presented me with a copy of the first film. I waited for the punch line. To which he knowingly smiled and said 'Just watch it.' It could have been a B movie with its relatively unknown cast, dated fashion and low budget cinematography. The cold lighting lacked the day glow brightness of your average teen flick. Yet I couldn't take my eyes off the screen. It seems I'm not alone in this phenomenon.

Lets not get too cerebral here. I'm not going to quibble about the quality of Stephenie Meyer's writing, complexity of characters or originality of the plot. Meyer doesn't stray from convention. Its a proven formula.  By her own admission, Meyer borrowed from the classics. She maintains that Twilight is loosely based on Jane Austen's Pride and Prejudice, New Moon, Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, Eclipse, Emily Bronte's Wurthering Heights and Breaking Dawn, Shakespeare's A Midsummer Night's Dream. Twilight is literally the stuff of  great romances.

Edward Cullen is the archetypal love interest. He is mysterious, brooding, cliched. James Deanesque, he has the trademark quiff, fitted t and a jawline for days. But this rebel is old school. He's as reserved  and chivalrous as Mr Darcy with the hypnotic qualities of Dracula.  

Edward's family is also a paradox. The Cullens are affluent, good  looking, cultured with excellent taste in property. Despite these attributes, they remain compassionate and grounded, with strong family values. TIME book critic, Lev Grossman said ' ...their worlds have a free-standing integrity that makes you feel as if you should be able to buy real estate there....people do not want to just read Meyer's books, they want to climb inside and live there.'

" I don't have the strength to stay away from you anymore."

This brings us to the main protagonist. Bella is human, tangible and perfectly ordinary to the untrained eye. Tomboyish, she favours practicality over the whims of fashion and make-up. Meyer didn't stray from convention with our heroine either. Many of her traits are comparable to those of Austen's Elizabeth Bennett. She is spirited and defiant enough to challenge Edward. He subsequently cannot wield his powers over her. But unlike Bennett, Bella is co-dependent and no feminist. There is no room for gender politics in this fantasy novel, raising many questions ( along with the 50 shades camp) about modern women and the romance novel.

That said, Twilight is still a teen movie that has captured an older market. This isn't the first time vampires have infiltrated teen fandom and appealed to an adult audience. Buffy the Vampire Slayer was a spin-off teen series with a cult following. These texts prove popular amongst adults because on some level we still harbour a nostalgia for blackboards, long hallways and cafeterias. The Times praised Meyer for 'perfectly capturing the teenage feeling of sexual tension and alienation.' Maybe we hide our insecurities better but these feelings are still prevalent in adulthood. Small wonder she had a best-seller on her hands.

The saga's $2 billion profit, was significantly boosted by an older female demographic, who dictate much of Hollywood's taste. Is it that these movies help women connect with their inner teenage girl? I attended the screening with my friend, Sandy, 39 who says, 'I read the books before the first film was made. Edward's character (in the book) came across as much older, old fashioned and the perfect gentleman, with that sense of danger we ladies cannot resist'. She laughs. 'I can watch all the films in one weekend'

She sheepishly admitted to me that she's since gone back and watched it again with someone else.

My sister (who we'll call Clare, for privacy and street cred purposes) is also in her 30s and a fan of the films. She has been trying to indoctrinate me for months. She says, 'twilight gives you a sense that even though the guy is a monster, she's not afraid to love him.' I can see her point. Love is transcendent. 

Meyer has sold 116 million copies worldwide, in 38 different languages, highlighting its cross cultural appeal. Crystal Mack of The Daily Herald wrote 'While teenage girls are the main audience, young boys and adults of both genders have also been swept up in the phenomenon.'

Vampire literature is closely linked with the romance genre. Vampires have long been symbols of sensuality, passion and desire. Jenny and Belinda are two more of my friends who enjoy swapping mythical erotic literature, the way one might have swapped a Mills and Boon, Danielle Steel, Jackie Collins or Jilly Cooper novel 20 years ago. They assure me that werewolves are also big business right now. Clearly we'd sooner spend our time with fictitious creatures than being engrossed in gritty realism.

More recently there has been a resurgence of vampire TV. Being Human, Vampire Diaries, True Blood. To name but a few. They have fallen into the genres of sci-fi, comedy, horror, romance and fantasy. However Twilight is stored in my 'not to be taken too seriously' film genre. Boy meets girls. Boy and girl embarked on an intense, romantic journey. Nothing too thought-provoking. I can't wait for the final instalment.

BYE RESOLUTION - Let them eat cake

A friend of mine recently asked me what my New Year's resolutions were. She seemed perplexed that I don't believe in them. I'm not so sure that the season of excess should be directly followed by guilt and remorse. We're not quite there yet.

A period of abstinence seems a cruel way to end the good will season. Besides we are still very much in the bleak mid-winter. Deep in the season of hibernation. Hardly a time to embark on fad diets and gruelling regimes. Why fight nature? I've always found Spring a more appropriate season for new beginnings. With a good 10-12 weeks of chilliness to go, I'm calling an amnesty on resolutions. Here are my indulgent alternatives.

"A few of my favourite things."

Opulence
Heavy, luxurious fabrics like cashmere, in rich, dark hues.

Ballet 
Like a Victorian Christmas, what could be more enchanting? The Nutcracker and The Snow Queen are fabulous but Swan Lake is the one. I recently saw it Performed by the Russian Ballet at Manchester's Bridgewater Hall. 

Scrumptiousness
I'm putting dessert back on the menu, in the form of Red Hot's Lime and Cranberry bread and butter pudding. Warming, creamy, and incredibly moreish.

Cinematic Magic
The Chronicles of Narnia, The Golden Compass and Twilight. Yes, I said it. Twilight, twilight, twilight! I'll explain the phenomenon next post.

Culling 
The humane variety. The closest I get to detoxing is de-cluttering my wardrobe and giving a big box of clothes to charity. My weapons of choice are a glass of shiraz and disco tunes. What can I say? Its a  cathartic process and one man's trash etc.

As promised, next post, the delectable Mr Cullen.